Historic hiking at Fort Stevens State Park

A hiker scales the side of the Peter Iredale shipwreck at Fort Stevens State Park.

Each year, more than one million visitors discover the wonders of Fort Stevens State Park. A shipwreck accessible from a black sand beach, views of the Columbia River’s South Jetty, ample stops for bird-watching. There’s an activity for everyone, from disc golf to fishing, cycling to paddle sports.

While the park is spread out over more than 4,300 acres, things can feel a little cramped during the peak summer season. For those seeking solitude and a chance to commune with nature, a trip north is all that is needed.

Departing Battery Russell, a 1904 gun emplacement in the center of the park, Jetty Road travels toward the mouth of the Columbia River and offers visitors a few chances to try their hand at beachfront off-roading.

A group of Caspian terns at Trestle Bay.

Drive past the sequentially alphabetical parking lots, follow the road as it curves right and terminates at the letter D. Here, parking is ample and free, but visitors should note that construction traffic will be prevalent through the season, as a project at the South Jetty remains in progress.

This parking area sits in the middle of a small peninsula. From it, head toward the south end of the parking lot, where a well-maintained trail and bridge lead toward the beaches of Trestle Bay.

Exiting the short romp through the sparse forest, visitors will soon notice a large concrete structure. Reminiscent of the larger gun batteries of the southern areas of the park, this facility harbors a more benign purpose of wildlife viewing.

Constructed and maintained by park staff and volunteers, this simple shelter is a fantastic spot to rest, recharge and take stock of the bountiful nature on display. This area is one of the most prolific bird-watching locales in Clatsop County.

In the spring of 2023, nearly 100 species of birds were observed at the site.

To get closer to the action, travel down a short grassy trail toward the beach. Upon reaching the sand, numerous habitats await.

Take a short walk northwest for views of a large grassy meadow, ringed by trees. Bald eagles are a common sight here, often viewed skimming the meadow in search of prey. Higher in the trees, great blue herons often perch as ospreys soar overhead.

For a longer hike, head eastward and begin circumnavigating the small peninsula. Caspian terns can often be seen, usually in large numbers, near the water’s edge. With a distinctive gravely call and bandit-like markings, these striking birds are rarely seen so closely. Beyond the masked birds, ancient pilings form in neat rows, nodding to their past as supporting members of a large railroad operation.

Pieces of driftwood wash ashore on the beach near the South Jetty.

As Trestle Bay gives way to vistas of the Columbia River, interesting built sights begin to appear. Construction barges and heavyweight digging machines illustrate the massive forces necessary to move and place the giant boulders comprising the jetty.

Some visitors may even glimpse some of these massive rocks being transported or placed into temporary storage. On a smaller scale, anglers can often be seen casting into the water from the northern reaches of the river’s beach. Collectors of driftwood and other maritime flotsam may find the area rich in treasures.

Perhaps due to sparse visitation or myriad interacting currents and tides, the area can produce unique beach finds.

Western snowy plovers, a small wading bird, breed nearby. Returning to the lot, please adhere to any signage marking off-limit areas and keep dogs on a leash. The birds build nests on sandy ground, often near conspicuous features. The nests are thus very easy to damage.

Though the surrounding area is small and can be traversed within an hour, Lot D offers a chance to sample many aspects of the park, from nature to history, in a secluded environment.

No parking pass is required for the lot, and visitors are reminded to take valuables with them. For the best viewing of the wildlife, binoculars or a telephoto camera lens is recommended.

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